Barranco - Artists' Community

The Barranco neighborhood of Lima is known as where the artists and musicians and artsy people hang out. It’s about 10 minutes by taxi from where we’re staying in the center of Miraflores. We had met a young woman who works at the bookstore who had told us that she lives in Barranco and prefers it because she is a plastics artist. Today we finally checked it out. We spent the day walking around trying to figure the town out. It has a lot of beautiful old decrepit buildings, most in very poor condition. There are some cafes and restaurants and bars. A pleasant parque central. Beautiful view out over the Pacific – which of course every community around here has if you walk to the edge!
We stopped for pisco sours and a snack at an artsy fartsy little art café on the park – Iskay – less than $US 10 for all that – in a pleasant and relaxing place. Later we stopped for lunch at a neighborhood bar/café on the other side of the park. I finally got to try Anticuchos, beef heart pieces on a stick. Very tasty, but a bit tough. Will have to try again. Another pisco sour. Gene had the Lomo Saltado, another popular local dish (sautéed beef). It tasted great. It was a great afternoon walking around. We still don’t know if we would prefer Barranco over Miraflores. We’re pretty stuck on Miraflores I think. We need to spend another day wandering over there.

Thanksgiving Day

Had totally forgotten what day it was in the US until somebody sent me an email wishing me a happy day! Well, in spite of the fact that they actually grow turkeys here, and we see it on menus all the time, we didn’t happen to have any today. Our wanderings around landed us at lunch time at Erni’s, a little sidewalk café near the park. They offered set menus for 7.5 or 9 soles or a set menu marino (fish) for 15 soles. Guess which we had! For appetizers we had a Pulpo de Olivo and a Tiradito Bicolor (similar to ceviche but without the onions and with 2 sauces). Fabulous. Then Gene ordered Tacu Tacu with Mariscos (flavored white beans and rice fried together – oh, my God this is so much better than it sounds! Topped with seafood) and I had Jalea de Mariscos (fried fish) and I swear to God the first bite I took was exactly what I remember Maine fried clams tasting like in the summer when I was a kid. Yes, I was in Heaven! Some Thankgiving Day Feast. And yes, we are very very grateful for all of you! Our Thanksgiving Day would be perfect if only our friends and family were here with us.

Lunch in My Favorite Alley

We may be splurging a lot on those $6 to $8 ceviches and fried fish plates and such (all of which are big enough to share and then some), but you really can eat well cheaply around here. Most places have a set “menu” with an appetizer, main course, drink and sometimes a dessert for a few dollars or less. This great little place in the alley in my favorite neighborhood has a great lunch offering for 6 soles ($US 2, or 1,000 colones). I had Tallarin Verde (green spaghetti) and Milanesa and Gene had something delicious, too – which I can’t remember.

Back in Lima

We're back in Miraflores. We enjoyed Trujillo and I absolutely adored the beach town of Huanchaco. But overall I guess both of us prefer the city. It's nice being back. The bus ride was better this time. I knew how to work the seat. There was no diesel fuel coffee offered in the morning.

We did a lot of walking around today. Found another really nice neighborhood in Miraflores where we could... Stopped for lunch at a nice little Italian place called Arugula.

Back to the Beach

Since Chan Chan only took an hour, there is plenty of time to continue on to Huanchaco for another lunch at the beach. Can’t resist this place. There are bigger waves today. We listen to the pounding surf as we enjoy another fabulous lunch in a second story restaurant with a view of the entire town and the ocean beyond. It’s quieter here today than it was on Saturday – and we thought it was quiet then. There is only one other table of people at the restaurant. We shared another unbelievably good ceviche mixto and a fish in a garlic sauce, along with one of those big bottles of beer. We could…
Later in the day we met two cute brothers from Naples, Florida. Probably in their late 20’s or early 30’s, they said that people here really give them a hard time because of their accent. They moved from here to Florida when they were pre-schoolers. Their parents are both Peruvians, so they speak Spanish “fluently,” but it is not their first language, and their pronunciation, and their phraseology, is off. I guess people are more patient with us because they look at them and think that their Spanish should be perfect, like a native. Listening to their experiences traveling to the country of their birth as foreigners was interesting. They were just happy to find someone they could speak English to! They thought their dear mother was being ridiculous a few years ago when she insisted on buying a lot right on the beach in Huanchaco, which is where she grew up. She paid $US 10,000 for it. Her sons are now shocked that small houses right on the beach are selling for the outrageous price of $80,000 - $100,000.
This is our last day in Trujillo. It was a good day. We like it here. But we’re looking forward to getting back to Miraflores, which we love. Tonight’s another big bus ride.

Chan Chan

It’s hard to describe Chan Chan. The guidebooks tell you it’s the world’s largest adobe city.

Why We Love Demarco's

Croissants & cafe. Little tables crowded about the room. White-shirted, black-vested, black-bow-tied waiters rushing about making sure everyone has what they need. Front of cafe opening through French doors to the ever-changing street scene. Sparkling selection of wine glasses hanging above the bar on the far wall. A language that I don't understand being spoken at the next table. Swedish maybe. Soft classical music. Free wireless! Paris maybe? London? Madrid? No, we're in Trujillo, Peru's 3rd largest city. Not as cosmopolitan as Lima, not quite as sparkling, it nevertheless feels more like a European city than what I think of as Latin America. The Colonial city part of it reminds me a bit if Granada, Nicaragua. It's nice. We like it. But not as much as we like Lima.

El Mochica

It’s the sort of place you take your mom on a Sunday afternoon. Big menu. Excellent local dishes, some of it the kind that Mom used to make back when Mom used to cook. Several big dining rooms available. Going all the way to the back one, expecting a more intimate environment, we found – guess what! A very lively, very loud band! Probably great music but nearly as loud as the stadium. Gene saw the glazed look on my face and grabbed my arm, dragging me back into the very pleasant entry area room. Tranquilo. Cabrito with beans again. Love that stuff. Here, in the country where I came to eat fish, I am getting hooked on meat, which I always thought I didn’t much care for. Gene had a fabulous steak – 300 grams worth – and it was delicious – cooked rare just the way we like it. Add a Pisco Sour (Catedral – super sized!) for me and a media jarra de sangria for Gene – and we are happy!

Cursed with Good Hearing

There’s a free dance concert at the stadium around the corner from our hotel. It’s in a place that reminds me of my old high school gymnasium. Where we played basketball. But of course here there are soccer nets. We noticed a sign about the concert the day we arrived. So I really tried. I really wanted to see the dancing. And hear the music. But as we sat waiting for the folkloric dancers, the recorded “music” from the speakers assaulted us. Gene was enjoying it, I think. He should have stayed for the concert. I couldn’t. I was in physical pain. First my ears felt like they were bleeding. Then my stomach started doing flip flops. We decided we’d rather do lunch…
But I’m wondering, short of having my hearing surgically destroyed, so that I will be “normal” like everybody else, and be able to go to concerts and things – there has to be another way. What about that gizmo that they advertize on tv? The thing that allows the old geezer to hear his television without disturbing his attractive but bitchy wife. Do you supposed it works in reverse? To turn the sound DOWN for the user without disturbing anyone else? I’d be willing to pay good money for that.

Caballitos de Huanchaco

No, they don't have little horses at the beach. Those intriguing looking boats that you see in the pictures are called "caballitos," little horses. There are pictures of caballitos on some of the pottery found at Chan Chan, indicating their use 3,000 years ago. They are made of totora reed and while still used by some fishermen, they have become largely a tourist attraction.

Huanchaco - Day at the Beach

More Bad Coffee - & then Off to the Beach

Oh, my God! For coffee this place is the worst! Did that stupid thing again this morning of going downstairs for the included breakfast! Poured myself some “coffee” out of the little white pitcher. Added some “milk” from the other pitcher. Took a taste – of cold axle grease, I guess! Jesus! Am I ever going to get a decent cup of coffee in this place??? So I asked the waiter what the hell is this all about! He explains to me that I am supposed to pour myself a cupful of hot water out of the big coffee urn. Then I am supposed to add a bit of the strong cold black stuff that looks like axle grease. Then I can add some of the weird tasting “cream” if I want. OK. So that’s closer to an actual cup of coffee, but, I really just need a real cup of coffee in the morning! Without all this work!
So ultimately we find a place that will serve us an actual cup of actual coffee. After that we are able to function well enough to decide to go to Huanchaco, the nearby beach town. Fun day. A real beach. Beach-town type restaurants. Great ceviche and cold beer. We’re happy again! It is fun wandering around a beach town but not burning up. It was so comfortable. And tranquilo. Not wild and crazy with weird tourists. Just really pleasant. Kind of like a Maine beach town. Nice town, good food, cold water. But here they surf it wet suits. Looks pretty weird, but they all seem happy. I like this place.

Trujillo Architecture

Trujillo is known for it's beautiful colonial architecture. We could just walk around all day looking at buildings.

To see some more of what we saw, click here. The photos will open up in a separate window and you can click on Slide Show.

Arrival in Trujillo - Please Just a Decent Cup of Coffee

Well, first off the bus ride wasn’t as great as it sounded, but I think it was all my fault. I just couldn’t figure out how to make the seat work right and it was dark so I couldn’t see what I was doing. Everything else was ok and if I could have got my seat adjusted, it would have been very comfortable. Definitely recommend bringing munchies and drinks. The little sandwich and brownie things didn’t look bad – wasn’t hungry, didn’t try them. But first thing in the morning, as we wheeled into Trujillo, the “conductor” came around with what I thought was to be coffee. Just what I needed at that point. Thank you. I took one sip and nearly spewed it across the bus! I don’t know what it was. Something like a strong blend of very old coffee and engine grease, maybe? With about a half cup of sugar added, so that it had the consistency of syrup and the taste of – well, I don’t know what, but trust me, it was really bad! After a week of raving about how incredible the coffee is in Peru, it was all destroyed with that one sip!
At the bus terminal, while I was in the bathroom, Gene, friendly guy that we all know him to be, befriended a charming taxi driver who wanted to help us out with all of our plans. Well, of course, the bitch traveling with Gene didn’t want help from anyone about anything. She simply wanted to be taken to Plaza Central, so that she could find a decent cup of coffee. No, she did not want to be taken to Huanchaco because all the hotels in Trujillo were full. No, she did not want to check in to the hotel in el centro that he recommended. She just wanted a damned cup of coffee. Finally convinced, and tired of the discussion I assume, he managed to drop us off at a coffee shop a block away from plaza central. The worst coffee shop I’ve ever been in. Absolutely the worst coffee I’ve ever had. Well, ok, even this was not as bad as the bus coffee thing. But still! We’re talking a tall glass full of lukewarm milk with a little side pitcher of coffee. Helloooo! This is what I get when I ask for “café con leche!” The waiter didn’t seem to understand and asked me if I wanted “coffee with milk.” OK, I agreed to that, not understanding why he didn’t understand it in Spanish. Well, apparently they do coffee differently up here in the North. By now it was looking like I was never again going to get a decent cup of coffee. Somehow we walked around (with fully loaded backpacks) until we found a normal coffee shop and obtained really good cups of cappuccino. OK. Happy now. After our first cup, I left Gene at the café with all of our bags while I walked around and quickly found a hotel. The one I was looking for, the charming old, slightly run-down colonial building one, of course was closed. Just because the guidebook says it’s there … OK so I find a hotel. Good location. Even has wireless, so I can do a little blogging. Has all the usual stuff. But a bit boring. A newer hotel with little or no character. But fine. And it’s in the area that we wanted. Lots of cafes and colonial architecture. We’re good.
Later in the day we stumbled into a great little neighborhood restaurant for lunch. Unfortunately I don’t remember now where it was or what it was called. But we had some fabulous food! Cay Estofado (Guinea pig), Papas Huancaina, Arroz Chaufa.
There is some interesting colonial architecture here, as promised. But I think I’m going to miss my sidewalk cafes. And good coffee. And the park.

Waiting for the Bus

Since we’re leaving on the night bus for Trujillo, we packed and checked out of the hotel this morning, then left our backpacks at the desk so that we could wander around town without carrying them. The bus leaves at 11:30 pm. It’s about a 9 hour trip. We have seats that recline all the way back into beds. Apparently there’s a movie and they supply blankets, drinks, a snack, etc. Sounds pretty luxurious compared to any bus we’ve ever been on.
First thing this morning we had coffee at my new favorite coffee place, Donetellos. Then after packing, I went for my second cup at my new favorite coffee place, La Favorita. Somehow our wires got crossed and we ended up in different places at the same time, so I had my second cup alone while Gene walked around town trying to figure out which of my new favorite places I was at. I suppose some of you must thing that all I ever do is have coffee. This is definitely not true. In the afternoon we went to Alfresco’s for lunch. This place is fancier than the other places we have fallen in love with. We had different types of mixed seafood plates, which were great. But it’s really not as good, or as much fun, as my new favorite places. We also walked over to the market again so that I could buy an alpaca shawl in case it gets cold on the bus tonight. After that, we stopped at a little corner café for a jarra of Chi Cha Morada. There was some time in there somewhere at both the South American Explorer’s Club and Starbucks on the internet.
So now we’re off for our second location on this trip: Trujillo – further north, but still on the coast. I need to put a map on here somewhere.

Not Couch Surfing Again

So we really want to experience couch surfing as travelers, since we have had so much fun hosting people. We had been told we would be welcomed at the home of a couch surfer in Trujillo. He had written to us twice and he and his family sound very interesting. We are interested in learning about the volunteer program for poor children the he is involved with. But surprise again! When I go to email him again to confirm our planned arrival, his profile now shows that he is traveling and cannot host anyone. I send him a message anyhow, just to be sure, since he had previously told us we could stay there. When we receive no answer, I try one other person, but he responds that he also is no longer hosting, since he had rented his spare room out. Guess we may never get the chance to couch surf. Que lastima! We will find a hotel when we get there.

Amazing Supermarkets

And as if the mercados were not enough, there are also incredible supermarkets - with deli-type counters, all kinds of fish, a couple of dozen types of potatoes (that was for you, Emma!) I love this place!

Starbucks in Latin America

There are really only two reasons to visit Starbucks in Peru. Firstly they offer free wireless. So for the price of a Latte Alto, 7 soles (about $2.25), you can check your email, surf the net for a couple of hours, find lodging at your next stop, and update your blog. Nobody seems to care how long you've been there - or even whether you've acually bought anything. It"s a busy, cheerful atmosphere. Other than the five Californian cyclers we've just met, most customers appear to be Peruvians. The cyclers, all probably in their 50's, have just finished a 500 mile, three week bike trip, stopping along the way to help build a couple of schools and provide a meal and clothes to a bunch of street kids. They do a trip like this every year. Travelers are more interesting than normal people. Also crazier. 500 miles on a bicycle! Anyhow, the other reason for hanging out at Starbucks in beautiful Miraflores, Peru, is the bathrooms. Immaculate. Seats. Soap. Hand dryers. After a few weeks of pedaling through remote villages, you just want to hang out for a while.

Lobo del Mar - Had to Do Lunch There Again!

Thank God for La Favorita

There's No Such Thing as a Good Free...

breakfast. Since breakfast is supposedly included with our room, we decided to go up to the rooftop cafe this morning and check it out. While waiting for Gene, I sipped on a cold coffee. Ten minutes after he joined me, Gene had still not been served coffee. We were the only customers up there. So much for breakfasts included with hotel rooms. Don't think I've ever had one worth bothering with. Every other cup of coffee we've had here has been really great. This was bad.

Why I Love My Room on the Park

Well, for starters, it's on the park! At any time of night or day I can look out from my balcony and watch the activity across the street. Sometimes I time the kissing couples. So far the couple with the record kissed for over an hour. I'm talking straight on lips contact with no discernable motion for over an hour. I thought they had suffocated each other and died.
I can check out the weather to decide what to wear before going out. Of course so far the weather has always been comfortable, dry, lovely. I'm sure it has its days.
The air around the park feels alive. I looked out at 1:15 this morning. There was a young woman sidewalk sweeper working away, with Christmas music from somewhere in the background. I wondered how she feels about her job. Is she happy to have a job? Grateful that she can get home in time to get the kids off to school? Miserable because it's the only job she can find and resenting every minute of it? The streets and sidewalks here are always clean. It's weird. Nice, but weird. I guess it's because of people like Sylvia. I don't know why, but I decided to call her Sylvia.
Every time of the day seems to have its own story. And I can watch them all. Of course watching from above has its limits. It usually serves to inspire. And then it's off to the park - to watch the kids. And the dogs. To buy an anticucho. To admire the pansies. My mother's favorite flower. I always miss her when I see pansies.
Every evening there is a flea market affair in one area of the park. A lot of antigues and odds and ends. Nothing I would want. But fun to look.
On Sunday morning we discovered a seniors' exercise class in one of the round pavilions. I was about to ask if I could join in when it was suddenly over. I asked if they met every day, but it's only a Sunday event.
There are some beautiful dogs around here. They get to walk in this beautiful park with their people. They all seem to be very well behaved. The dogs here do not bark. I wonder if they have all had their voice boxes removed.

Arrecife-New Favorite Lunch Place

Walking back from the market, we discovered El Arrecife - a great little cebicheria operated by Isabel. The lunch special #1 was a beautiful plate of ceviche, followed by a big plate of arroz con mariscos. Along with an Inka Cola, the cost was 13.90 soles, or about $US4.50 or 2,500 colones). Delicious!

Mercado de Miraflores

Wandering through markets is one of our favorite things. This one is incredible. Made us feel like we were back in Spain. The variety is amazing. And everything is arranged so neatly that it seems more art than food. Lots of cheeses and dried fruits. A great variety of olives - 400 grams for 1.4 soles. The fish vendor and Gene are now best buddies.

Donatello's - My New Favorite Place

How could it NOT be my new favorite place? Great coffee for 2.5 soles. On my favorite street where I want to live. Four tables for 2. The kind of place where they know your name. And this guy. Who could resist?

Rincon Chami Again

Back to my new favorite place again for lunch. Couldn't help myself. Had to have the Seco de Cordero, which was absolutely fabulous. Gene had the Pollo Asado. With Inka Colas, the total meal was 44 soles ($US14 or 8,000 colones). I love this place. There are apartments upstairs in the same building, but there are no vacancies. There are a lot of art supply stores in this area, which is close to the park. Gene says "I could..."

Emma: Please help me out here. Why on earth do they call it dried lamb? It is delicious!

La Favorita - My New Favorite Place

And Gene says "I could..."

Lima Centro

We took a bus tour today. It was an easy way to get a feel for where things are and the distances between them. Also to figure out what places we want to see more of. This was actually our first look at Lima Centro. Of course there's a great deal here that's of historical significance, but I didn't find the city itself all that interesting. I see why most people who can do so choose to live in beautiful Miraflores or other such areas, which are still very much a part of the city, with all the things that city life has to offer, but are beautiful and clean and comfortable as well.

La Iglesia - in the Park